Helle and Peter went on a two-day hike on pilgrim’s trail in Northern Zealand in December 2025. The weather was frosty and sunny, perfect conditions for a walk. We started in Elsinore, and slept in a shelter at Esrum lake on the first night. The day after we continued towards the train station in Tisvilde. On the map below is our route, and here is the official route, which we deviated from. The trail is well marked and easy to follow.
Day 1 – Elsinore to lake Esrum – 25 km
We started early, and drove our car to Hillerød station. Here we took a train to Elsinore, where we were ready to start our hike at 9.30. Elsinore was completely empty. We soon reached the forest and had a good pace.
We reached Gurre lake at lunchtime and enjoyed the heat from the sun at lunch break.
We continued towards Esrum, where we arrived at Esrum Monastery at 15:00. Unfortunately the monastery’s museum was closed, so we could only admire it from the outside. Only one of several buildings remain. The main church was demolished in 1559, as the king wanted to use the building materials to construct Kronborg castle in Elsinore.
We asked a lady where to find water and it turned out she lived just next by. She invited us into her house to see a painting of how the monastery had looked when it was build. We also got to use the toilet and fill our water bottles. It was such a kind gesture.
We continued to Esrum Lake and walked by the shore while the sun was setting at 15:40.
There are many shelters right at the lakeshore, and we had booked one of those. While it was still bright we started a campfire and had our dehydrated meals for dinner. The evening was still and calm, a rare blessing in the Danish winter.
It was a cold night, but we had brought warm sleeping bags, and we had a good night’s sleep.
Day 2 – Esrum lake to Tisvilde – 34 km
We packed our bags in the twilight of dawn, and were ready to leave at 08:00.
The first two hours were through Grib forest with the low sun slowly rising. With the frost on every branch it was very beautiful.
From Grib forest we continued towards Tibberup and walked 5 km on the paved road to Annisse and lake Arresø.
We mainly followed the pilgrim’s trail. We enjoyed lunch at the shore of the lake.
From Annisse it was a mix between paved road and small tracks until we reached Tisvilde forest at Ramløse. At this point our legs were tired and we both started to have blisters.
After a break we continued the last 6 km through Tisvilde forest and reached Tisvilde train station at 15:40, just as the sun was setting. The two-day hike on pilgrim’s trail in Northern Zealand can be compared the Skjoldungestien close by.