In this post, we share our 3-day hike in Armenia’s Gegham mountains — one of the most remote and beautiful regions in the country. The Geghams are a high volcanic plateau of open landscapes, crater lakes, and extinct volcanoes, stretching between Lake Sevan and Mount Ararat.
We followed part of the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) from Sevaberd to Geghard, summited Mount Azhdahak (3,597 m), and wild-camped twice under brilliant night skies. Be aware that water is scarce on the trail, and that you will meet intimidating shepherd dogs. This is a hike for those who love solitude, wild camping, and the feeling of being in wilderness.
We travelled in September 2025 as part of a one-week road trip through the Caucasian country.
Day 1 – Sevaberd to Azhdahak, 20 km and 1240 m elevation gain
Zacarias picked us from Garni HinYard in his old Nissan and drove behind us to Geghard village. There we parked our car, and Zacarias drove us back through Garni, and further south to Sevaberd village, as far as the paved road went. It was 11:30 when we started the hike in great sunny weather. Sevaberd is located 2000 m above sea level, so we were already in the mountains. We walked up jeep tracks through the dry landscape.
We met a few shepherds with sheep and huge, intimidating dogs. The dogs in this region can be aggressive, but the shepherds had full control of the dogs we met.
The shepherds were friendly and would like to talk, but we didn’t share a language. We were able to explain that we are from Denmark. We got thumbs-up when we mentioned the names o the summits we were heading for.
We reached Akna lake in 3000 m above sea level, and filtered water for the next section. Water sources are few, so we left with 5 liters each.
While filtering, a dog joined us. It seemed friendly, and stayed with us for a while.
It had been a warm hike to the lake, and Helle decided to feshen up with a swim.
We had now reached the volcanic plateau and continued southeast. Here we followed the Trans Caucasian Trail. There is no marked trail as such to follow. We used apps to navigate the volcanic landscapes. We continued to see herds of sheep grazing between the ancient volcanoes.
The landscape continued to amaze us. We had no mobile signal, and it we had the feeling of being in the wilderness.
It was a very beautiful day, but as sunset was approaching, we had to make camp. We pitched the tent at 3200 m above sea level, near Azhdahak, the tallest peak in the mountain range. As we enjoyed dinner (Real Turmat is delicious), clouds started rolling in from lake Sevan far below us, partly covering the peak in front.
As soon as the sun set, the temperature dropped significantly and the sleeping bags seemed appealing.
Day 2 – Azhdahak to Geghard Valley, 25 km and 600 m elevation gain
We woke up at sunrise to sunny weather. There was frost on the tent, so the night must have been cold.
After a cup of coffee, we continued towards the Azhdahak volcano and decided to summit it. At the peak in 3600 m above sea level we were rewarded with amazing views of the crater lake and the surrounding landscape.
Clouds started forming, and we walked down towards the trail. We crossed boulder fields and dry grass. The clouds hung at the peak, and below it we could see Badi lake ahead. We believed we could see lake Sevan to the north.
There were patches of snow left from the winter, and soon more would come as winter was approaching in the mountains. It was mostly sunny as we approached Badi lake. This section of the hike was especially beautiful, as we passed through the ancient volcanic landscape.
Near Badi lake we stopped for lunch and evaluated our water supply. It was a long detour to the lake if we were to resupply. Also, a large herd of sheep were at the lake. Instead of going to the lake we decided to hike to the hill above to admire the view.
As we left the lake, the weather turned, and the sky grew dark. To reach our car in Geghard village, we had to leave the main Trans Caucasian Trail, and head south. We reached a small creek and filtered water, despite cow dung nearby. It was our only option.
Soon we were walking in a hail and thunderstorm. We were still at 3200 m above sea level, and we were exposed on the plateau. We reached the area where we had planned to camp for the night, but decided to keep walking instead as it was still raining. We were passed by shepherds in Lada Niwa jeeps who wanted to know if we were ok and if we needed a lift. It was kind of them, they clearly look after each other in the mountains. But we were here to hike.
We continued, and it was now 17:00. We had to decide if we would camp or try to reach the car before sunset. As we discussed pros and cons, the clouds lifted and the rain stopped. We decided to stay in the mountains and pitched the tent on somewhat level ground. It was close to a jeep road, but the site had amazing views of the valley below.
The wind calmed and the sunset was amazing. We could see mount Ararat in Turkey, held dear by the Armenians. Further west we could see the four peaks of mount Aragat, the tallest mountain of Armenia.
Day 3 – Towards Geghard Village
It was sunny and dry when we woke up. We lingered at camp, letting our gear dry while sipping tea and coffee. The skyline was unforgettable—Ararat and Aragats framed the horizon.
On the last section towards Geghard village we followed jeep tracks and power lines. The views were good, but it was less inspiring hiking as the previous days.
We approached the car, and contemplated that we had not met any other hikers during the last three days. We reached the car at 10:30, and headed towards Yerevan.
Peter had walked in new Bestard hiking shoes from camp.am. They were great and are new favorites.
More posts on hiking.